almost a year since this masterpiece was written, substack algorithm recommended it to me, and i’m so glad it did!
i’m “perfume curious” but didn’t know much about the chemical composition or the business side of perfumery and your essay thought me a ton (but now i want more, subscribing!). your writing is delightful to read: so much clarity, depth and humor.
Wow, I have to dig out my BR540. The section on dupes is missing the fact that Kurkdjian also created Burberry Her which smells so similar, closer than Cloud, and is a case of a perfumer duping himself? Or a brand saying "we liked that, give us more" so he did.
A great note about Burberry Her! To your point, I didn't include it in the dupe section because it was made by Kurkdjian and I don't consider it a part of 'dupe culture' - to me it harkens back to an older, and probably more prevalent, phenomenon in the fragrance world of perfumers riffing on their own accords to create similar scents for different houses, eg. Mark Buxton making CDG Man 2 and Le Labo Vetiver 46. I don't think this raises the ethical issues of dupe culture in the same way a person can't steal from themselves.
Made an account just to comment on how much I appreciate your writing. I'm just beginning my fragrance journey and this + your Le Labo article have been illuminating (and a pleasure to read!). Thank you.
I had a desire to read nearly eight thousand words about this perfume. Thank you
This was an insanely good article! I love the aroma chemical explanations. Glad to see you back, the le labo article is a favorite.
Thank you for this incredible piece! I like your term gourmand bijoux.
Beyond excited to have you posting again!
I loved this and am so happy the substack algorithm recommended this to me. Your writing is amazing
Please never stop writing, this is brilliant!
wow insane. thank you for sharing this and got me real excited for my first bottle i just got as a gift from paris!! ❤️
I learned so much from this essay. Loved it! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
almost a year since this masterpiece was written, substack algorithm recommended it to me, and i’m so glad it did!
i’m “perfume curious” but didn’t know much about the chemical composition or the business side of perfumery and your essay thought me a ton (but now i want more, subscribing!). your writing is delightful to read: so much clarity, depth and humor.
great writing, although i hate that scent
Just found this and it was an incredible read. Thank you for writing it.
This is the BR540 deep dive I kept hoping for on /fragrance but not seeing. This made my night!
Fantastic article. Thank you for your care in writing it! Loved it 🥰
An extremely well written piece, I thoroughly enjoyed reading it! Well done and keep it up
Wow, I have to dig out my BR540. The section on dupes is missing the fact that Kurkdjian also created Burberry Her which smells so similar, closer than Cloud, and is a case of a perfumer duping himself? Or a brand saying "we liked that, give us more" so he did.
A great note about Burberry Her! To your point, I didn't include it in the dupe section because it was made by Kurkdjian and I don't consider it a part of 'dupe culture' - to me it harkens back to an older, and probably more prevalent, phenomenon in the fragrance world of perfumers riffing on their own accords to create similar scents for different houses, eg. Mark Buxton making CDG Man 2 and Le Labo Vetiver 46. I don't think this raises the ethical issues of dupe culture in the same way a person can't steal from themselves.
Good point 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Made an account just to comment on how much I appreciate your writing. I'm just beginning my fragrance journey and this + your Le Labo article have been illuminating (and a pleasure to read!). Thank you.