“ … the exact nucleus of mediocrity …. along with its siblings … “ 😂 AGREED! These lines gaslight me. I can’t find anything worth wearing a second time and I think that it’s sheerly the price point that makes me think, “Ok there HAS to be something worth it here …” I like how you have unequivocally indicated that indeed there is nothing to be missed.
I'm always hopeful when I go to smell these hyperpriced niche brands that there will be something worth sniffing, but they always seem to let me down.... they say insanity is doing the same thing over and over and hoping for a different result, but I like to think of it as eternal optimism!
Tuberose, you say? In case you haven't discovered this classic before, allow me to throw a hat into the ring: the great, bombastic chypre, 1984's original Bijan. I haven't tried the perfume yet, but I prefer the balance and sweetness of the EdP to the EdT, although it's harder to dose because this beast is STRONG. I own and love both – true harbingers of the era with gorgeous openings and terrific, civet-drenched drydowns. Warning: avoid the synthetic garbage Five Star Fragrances reformulations like the plague. Good luck!
You are living my dream! I've smelled a sample of vintage Fracas en passant but unfortunately didn't get a chance to wear test. The modern formulation is a bit grim, I agree - I think the early 2010s bottles have held up best as a reconstruction attempt.
Sob! I don’t live in Australia. I’ve been trying to find a bottle of pre 1980s Fracas, (my understanding is there was a reformulation in the 90s when the company sold?) if your aware of someone who has one, I will pay.
your informed musings on perfume and your acerbic wit are a treat! I’ve gone through my tuberose phase and would highly recommend Lutens - Tubereuse Criminelle and Naomi Goodsir - Nuit de Bakelite.
Ahhh, I loved Tubereuse Criminelle because I'm a sucker for a camphor note and think it should be used more often - but the Goodsir was so radioactively green that it made me queasy and I had to throw the blotter!
Sorry you had such a bad reaction to NdB! Speaking of camphor notes - have you tried Diesel Fuel for Life Femme? The official listed notes leave out a lot I think because I can definitely smell something like camphor leaves in there (could be the patch but may be shiso as well).
I had missed your posts! I rarely get the chance to smell most of the perfumes you mention, but reading your thoughts about them feels close enough. Happy new year!
I wanted to love Rouge Smoking so badly, which was maybe why it stung so badly when I didn't.... have you tried the Extrait yet? And I agree, Barenia is one of those intellectual perfumes I think merits some time to process and evaluate.
Love this piece. Your description of the notes taking safety courses before entering the bottle made me chortle. Interested to hear your thoughts on Un Bel amour d’été. I’m a big fan. For other bold 80s style florals, have you tried the tuberoses in Profumum Roma’s line? Sabbia Bianca is my fave, but Tagete and Tuberosa are also really good. See also OroNardo from Xínu and Paloma Picasso (bangin’ room filling chypre).
“ … the exact nucleus of mediocrity …. along with its siblings … “ 😂 AGREED! These lines gaslight me. I can’t find anything worth wearing a second time and I think that it’s sheerly the price point that makes me think, “Ok there HAS to be something worth it here …” I like how you have unequivocally indicated that indeed there is nothing to be missed.
I'm always hopeful when I go to smell these hyperpriced niche brands that there will be something worth sniffing, but they always seem to let me down.... they say insanity is doing the same thing over and over and hoping for a different result, but I like to think of it as eternal optimism!
Roja Dove has always been kitsch to my nose, from the very first line of too many overpriced, bloated messes
Tuberose, you say? In case you haven't discovered this classic before, allow me to throw a hat into the ring: the great, bombastic chypre, 1984's original Bijan. I haven't tried the perfume yet, but I prefer the balance and sweetness of the EdP to the EdT, although it's harder to dose because this beast is STRONG. I own and love both – true harbingers of the era with gorgeous openings and terrific, civet-drenched drydowns. Warning: avoid the synthetic garbage Five Star Fragrances reformulations like the plague. Good luck!
“The berries are gone; the lily is tepid; the patchouli beats listlessly on; the empire breathes its last.”
This is why I read your work…pure poetry!
Have you tried vintage fracas? I have a tiny vial and its worlds away and better than the terrible reformulation.
You are living my dream! I've smelled a sample of vintage Fracas en passant but unfortunately didn't get a chance to wear test. The modern formulation is a bit grim, I agree - I think the early 2010s bottles have held up best as a reconstruction attempt.
(Just a heads up, in case you weren't aware - Pink Manor Decant Club [Aus Decanter] offer samples of the 1948 version of Fracas. It is exxy, but FYI!)
I adore PMDC. Such a valuable resource in a country like Australia where our barrier to access for indie, artisan, and vintage scents is so high 💗
Sob! I don’t live in Australia. I’ve been trying to find a bottle of pre 1980s Fracas, (my understanding is there was a reformulation in the 90s when the company sold?) if your aware of someone who has one, I will pay.
i was so excited to see you published — love your writing! happy new year :)
your informed musings on perfume and your acerbic wit are a treat! I’ve gone through my tuberose phase and would highly recommend Lutens - Tubereuse Criminelle and Naomi Goodsir - Nuit de Bakelite.
Ahhh, I loved Tubereuse Criminelle because I'm a sucker for a camphor note and think it should be used more often - but the Goodsir was so radioactively green that it made me queasy and I had to throw the blotter!
Sorry you had such a bad reaction to NdB! Speaking of camphor notes - have you tried Diesel Fuel for Life Femme? The official listed notes leave out a lot I think because I can definitely smell something like camphor leaves in there (could be the patch but may be shiso as well).
Your writing is so good!!!!
I had missed your posts! I rarely get the chance to smell most of the perfumes you mention, but reading your thoughts about them feels close enough. Happy new year!
Thank you so much, Katya! I have missed posting :) Happy new year to you as well.
Happy new year! I love Rouge Smoking but also love a scathing review and strong opinion. Am still making my mind up on Barenia. Glad you’re back!
I wanted to love Rouge Smoking so badly, which was maybe why it stung so badly when I didn't.... have you tried the Extrait yet? And I agree, Barenia is one of those intellectual perfumes I think merits some time to process and evaluate.
I so enjoyed reading this! It's definitely made me want to explore Amouage too!
Love this piece. Your description of the notes taking safety courses before entering the bottle made me chortle. Interested to hear your thoughts on Un Bel amour d’été. I’m a big fan. For other bold 80s style florals, have you tried the tuberoses in Profumum Roma’s line? Sabbia Bianca is my fave, but Tagete and Tuberosa are also really good. See also OroNardo from Xínu and Paloma Picasso (bangin’ room filling chypre).