Incense is at the core of perfumery, rooted in its original latin root of "per fumum" through smoke. It’s fascinating how incense bridges ancient rituals with modern fragrance, connecting us through time and scent!
Many of what is mentioned as frankincense and myrrh patchouly, coriander, Amber, sandalwood, black pepper, Bergamont, and such are some of the ingredients used in the original formation of Yve Saint Laurent’s original opium perfume. They have changed their formation of ingredients which does not smell the same as the original opium created in 1970’s as a woodsy, sensual smoky scent. I wish I could find that scent that I crave so much again . Do you have any suggestions or recommendations. I loved reading your article of incense perfumes . Thank you .
Hi Kathy - yes, Opium has suffered from many reformulations over the years. I think (beyond scoring a vintage bottle on ebay) you will only able to find something similar to its spicy amber will be in the artisan space where perfumers use a lot of naturals. Try Olympic Amber (Olympic Orchids), Byzantine Amber (Francesca Bianchi), and Ma Nishtana (Prissana). The reformulation of Cinnabar (Estee Lauder), Opium's sister scent, has also held up well.
This was So interesting. Thank you! I am a big fan of Trudon's Carmélite, which to me smells much more like the churches in Rome (and Venice) than their actual incense scent.
Have you tried Unum Lavs the actual pope perfume? (Ok it was more created as liturgical cleaning spray/room freshener) is my understanding for the Vatican.
I have indeed, and I do think there's something (pleasantly) detergent about it. That sweet spot between lemon, pine, and frankincense that smells like really clean wood floors.
Beautifully written. It is interesting to read about incense perfumes from those w perspective of their religious use as it is not something native to how I grew up. BUT that damp basement smell is weirdly comforting to me, as association from visiting my aunt in her apartment within an old Soviet era concrete building.
Ah! What a wonderful piece on my favorite fragrance category. Happy to see you focused on some deeper cuts as choices to highlight vs rehashing the usual suspects (though they were of course mentioned)! You are totally right about incense extreme. I hated it the first time I smelled it, but revisiting it older and wiser it is an experience.
For me, Filippo Sorcinelli stands at an interesting intersection of Catholicism and incense perfumery -- especially considering his design work developing garments for the Vatican and Pope & fragrances used by them as well.
Ahh thank you for saying so Matt, I did want to avoid the big hitters for this exact reason! And it's such an incredible subgenre to explore. I agree re: Sorcinelli - LAVS is a brilliant, theologically dense perfume I think about often. Profumum Roma's Olibanum as well.
Sorcinelli is great at exploring the breadth of incense from liturgical stuff to abstract. He's too prolific though and I have a hard time keeping up with smelling his work. haha!
Some other favorites beyond the usual suspects:
Trudon - Mortel
Wienerblut - Ex Voto
Oriza Legrand - Reve d'ossian (relique d'amour is nice too, but not really churchy)
Heeley - Eau Sacree (Cardinal is great, but this has more dimension to me)
In your experience, have you developed any interest in aromatherapy? Frankincense has been noted for its healing of Bronchitis and skin problems….And, have you explored the Asian and Indian incense combinations?
This was really wonderful to read. I have declared 2025 the year of my exploration of incense when it started. I can't wait to try a couple of the ones mentioned in the article as well as in the comments. Most of my incense are amouage ones. But definitely would like singular ones more.
I adore LDDM, and it's the perfume I use to introduce others to what artisan perfumery can really do - a well deserved modern classic! But I do love to explore the rest of the Tauer line because I really love his glowing, hippie-adjacent composition style.
Beautifully written. Growing up Catholic, it’s the smell that brings me right back to my childhood. I no longer attend services, but I think it’s the smells I miss most!
Incense is at the core of perfumery, rooted in its original latin root of "per fumum" through smoke. It’s fascinating how incense bridges ancient rituals with modern fragrance, connecting us through time and scent!
Many of what is mentioned as frankincense and myrrh patchouly, coriander, Amber, sandalwood, black pepper, Bergamont, and such are some of the ingredients used in the original formation of Yve Saint Laurent’s original opium perfume. They have changed their formation of ingredients which does not smell the same as the original opium created in 1970’s as a woodsy, sensual smoky scent. I wish I could find that scent that I crave so much again . Do you have any suggestions or recommendations. I loved reading your article of incense perfumes . Thank you .
Kpk
Hi Kathy - yes, Opium has suffered from many reformulations over the years. I think (beyond scoring a vintage bottle on ebay) you will only able to find something similar to its spicy amber will be in the artisan space where perfumers use a lot of naturals. Try Olympic Amber (Olympic Orchids), Byzantine Amber (Francesca Bianchi), and Ma Nishtana (Prissana). The reformulation of Cinnabar (Estee Lauder), Opium's sister scent, has also held up well.
This was So interesting. Thank you! I am a big fan of Trudon's Carmélite, which to me smells much more like the churches in Rome (and Venice) than their actual incense scent.
Have you tried Unum Lavs the actual pope perfume? (Ok it was more created as liturgical cleaning spray/room freshener) is my understanding for the Vatican.
I have indeed, and I do think there's something (pleasantly) detergent about it. That sweet spot between lemon, pine, and frankincense that smells like really clean wood floors.
I just added that to my next trip to Rome to-do list!
Beautifully written. It is interesting to read about incense perfumes from those w perspective of their religious use as it is not something native to how I grew up. BUT that damp basement smell is weirdly comforting to me, as association from visiting my aunt in her apartment within an old Soviet era concrete building.
Ah! What a wonderful piece on my favorite fragrance category. Happy to see you focused on some deeper cuts as choices to highlight vs rehashing the usual suspects (though they were of course mentioned)! You are totally right about incense extreme. I hated it the first time I smelled it, but revisiting it older and wiser it is an experience.
For me, Filippo Sorcinelli stands at an interesting intersection of Catholicism and incense perfumery -- especially considering his design work developing garments for the Vatican and Pope & fragrances used by them as well.
Ahh thank you for saying so Matt, I did want to avoid the big hitters for this exact reason! And it's such an incredible subgenre to explore. I agree re: Sorcinelli - LAVS is a brilliant, theologically dense perfume I think about often. Profumum Roma's Olibanum as well.
Sorcinelli is great at exploring the breadth of incense from liturgical stuff to abstract. He's too prolific though and I have a hard time keeping up with smelling his work. haha!
Some other favorites beyond the usual suspects:
Trudon - Mortel
Wienerblut - Ex Voto
Oriza Legrand - Reve d'ossian (relique d'amour is nice too, but not really churchy)
Heeley - Eau Sacree (Cardinal is great, but this has more dimension to me)
etc etc etc. So many good things!!
In your experience, have you developed any interest in aromatherapy? Frankincense has been noted for its healing of Bronchitis and skin problems….And, have you explored the Asian and Indian incense combinations?
This was really wonderful to read. I have declared 2025 the year of my exploration of incense when it started. I can't wait to try a couple of the ones mentioned in the article as well as in the comments. Most of my incense are amouage ones. But definitely would like singular ones more.
A delightful read for this Catholic synesthete.
Frankincense is one of my favorite notes. I love strong incense perfumes. Great article.
Tauer’s L’Air du Desert Marocain is his masterpiece. And very centered on incense and spice. Thanks for your lovely piece here. Spot on.
I adore LDDM, and it's the perfume I use to introduce others to what artisan perfumery can really do - a well deserved modern classic! But I do love to explore the rest of the Tauer line because I really love his glowing, hippie-adjacent composition style.
Loved this ❤️ going to check these scents as an incense lover. what do you think of d'orsays new Incense Crush? Curious.
A brilliant, timely read, thank you
I'll try and search for these scents online.
👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Beautifully written. Growing up Catholic, it’s the smell that brings me right back to my childhood. I no longer attend services, but I think it’s the smells I miss most!