16 Comments
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Andrea Stoeckel's avatar

I came to these posts because I believe perfume. I'm a larger woman and have now lost half my weight in 30 years. When I was bigger scent was my "jewelry" and I became very familiar with brands and how different they might smell on me rather than how they smelled in a paper strip in the store.

All this to say thank you for being here

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Wallis Jewelry Connoisseur's avatar

Congratulations on your weight loss. It is very hard.

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Betsy's avatar

Oh, I am so happy to have found your Substack. This is exactly what I'm interested in - and you write so very well. Thank you.

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Jane Briggs's avatar

I am similarly flummoxed by these. I am a big fan of several Diptyques, but none of these impressed me, and the pricing is inexplicable. Prices need to become a bigger part of our conversations about fragrances; it is clear that brands just want to be considered luxury, and the exclusivity factor is starting to offend me, so I am holding onto more of my dollars. But I'm clearly in the minority as I just read about how much Amouage has increased its sales.

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Miccaeli's avatar

Yes, price and perfume is an important topic and a difficult one. Artisan perfumers (rightly) point out that perfumes can't just be base material cost as you're paying for skill etc, but is anyone paying for that in the industrialised oil house system? It's doubtful. There has to be a middle ground between pricing scents fairly as artistic goods and not scalping the consumer entirely - which is where it feels a lot of designer and niche houses are heading.

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Jane Briggs's avatar

Exactly, I don't mind paying for good fragrances from smaller houses as they are developing ingredients on their own. It is the larger houses creating lines priced to be only for the wealthiest that really gets my goat.

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Cuir de Rube's avatar

I was similarly bored with their new releases. I’m glad I’m not the only one. It felt like they were going for the Chanel eau destination line.

I’m admittedly not the biggest Diptyque fan, but these new ones seemed just like messes and a big departure from their classical style. I didn’t even see their price tag.

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Wallis Jewelry Connoisseur's avatar

I love Oyedo. To me it smells super Happy and fizzy.

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Aoife's avatar

I am yearning to sample this! It truly sounds like gold dust!

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Wallis Jewelry Connoisseur's avatar

There is a slight minty smell, herbally and Orange. It smells a lot like candy. I have a sister who is really picky and she loves it. Diptyque sells a travel size.

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Aoife's avatar

Wow, thank you so much for this detailed reply -- extra excited to sample now. Will keep an eye out for the travel size ☺️

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Wallis Jewelry Connoisseur's avatar

They usually carry around Christmas. From Diptyque I enjoy that one, the fig one is okay and L’ombre dans L’eau smells greenish. Havent smelled anything like l’ombre. If you like fig, I think Dioriviera is the best. It’s very expensive but oh so gorgeous. I try to keep my fragrances under $150 usd. Aqua Allegoria Neroli Vetiver, Manderine Basilic Forte are really good. I’m dying to try Rosa Verde. Keep me posted!

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Amber Nelson's avatar

I got a sample of lunamaris with a birthday present. When I smelled it on paper I got the incense notes a little bit but on me it just vanishes into something super generic 2004 mall brand floral. Unrelated, but the lilacs are blooming here and I’ve become obsessed with finding a good lilac perfume. Which resulted in signing up for the Ffern waiting list. Do you know about how that brand markets their products and do you have thoughts about it? I’m annoyed by the “exclusivity theater” of it all. And yet I was pulled in because the promo images had lilacs.

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PR's avatar

I too have been seeking a good lilac fragrance for some years now. The closest anything has come for me is the soap Lilac Toast from Fzotic.

There must be something unusually difficult about lilac scents in perfume? Maybe? Because I’ve smelled lilac candles that I like and soaps… but somehow whatever substance / accord / scent molecule those use doesn’t translate well to perfume?

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Amber Nelson's avatar

I looked it up and I guess lilac is a “mute” flower in perfume which means the scent cannot be captured.

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Jane's avatar
May 9Edited

I just got a sample of Corail Oscuro. The first instant actually reminded me of this lovely perfume I was randomly given a sample of and like a lot (Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajàd). Within seconds it turned into a migraine. I suspect this is what you described as „a vegetal nightmare.“ I’m new to this so wondering if you know what this is that gives me a headache? A friend suggested aldehyde, which has shown up in other perfumes that give me a headache right away.

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